省人大代表陈秀娜:建议打造“河南服装时尚创新创意中心”|河南两会财经访谈(59)

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省人大代表陈秀娜:建议打造“河南服装时尚创新创意中心”|河南两会财经访谈(59)

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| 大河报·大河财立方记者 丁倩文 朱哲 摄影

作为河南本土中高端服装品牌的领头羊,黛玛诗目前已入驻全国27个省市,基本完成全国布局。2019年,在民营经济整体疲软的大背景下,黛玛诗却实现了17%的逆势增长,业绩十分亮眼。

一花独秀不是春。河南服装产业经过40余年的积蓄和沉淀,正面临转型升级和实质突破的关键期。如何抓住机会实现蝶变,成为摆在河南服装人面前的重要课题。

河南省十三届人大三次会议期间,省人大代表、黛玛诗时尚服装有限公司(以下简称黛玛诗)董事长陈秀娜接受大河报·大河财立方《极刻》记者专访,针对河南服装产业的发展,她准备了两份建议:打造河南时尚创新创意中心,加快完善产业园区配套设施建设。

河南服装工业企业产值达3000亿元

却鲜有叫响全国的集聚区

从品种单一到百花齐放,从产值20亿元到如今产值3000亿元,40年时间,河南服装产业已成为全省国民经济的一支重要力量。

据相关数据统计,截至2019年底,河南省服装行业共有企业和商户167000家,从业人员超480万,服装工业企业产值达到3000亿元,在全国排名第六位。以娅丽达、梦舒雅等众多女裤品牌为引领的女裤已占据全国女裤市场的半壁江山,以黛玛诗等女装品牌为代表的城市白领高端服饰已享誉全国。

目前,河南服装产业中,已有“中国驰名商标”11家,“河南省著名商标”94家。此外,有商水集聚区、西平产业集聚区、新密产业集聚区等10余个服装产业集群。这些产业集群的兴起,为产业发展、转型升级等奠定了坚实的基础。

陈秀娜告诉大河报·大河财立方《极刻》记者,虽然河南服装产业发展占有天时、地利、人和,但比起浙江、广东、上海等服装制造业强省、强市,目前仍然存在不少问题。

“全国有很多著名的‘服装小镇’,比如绍兴的柯桥面料、杭州女装、宁波男装、海宁皮草等,在河南却鲜有叫响全国的服装产业集聚区。”陈秀娜经历了“中国女裤看郑州”的辉煌时代,在她看来,眼下亟须解决河南服装产业转型的问题,重立河南服装产业在全国的地位。

如今,河南服装产业推进的“巧媳妇工程”“安家工程”等,带动服装企业的生产环节下沉至县域及镇域,推动服装产业取得“裂变式”发展,实现了经济发展与当地就业的双赢局面。但服装业的研发机构无法在县域培育和发展,这就造成了研发机构成果与企业需求容易产生“棚架现象”。

不仅如此,陈秀娜认为,相比于国内一流服装企业及国际知名服装品牌,河南服装产业在高端研发设计、制版、工艺、生产管理、营销等方面的人才匮乏,即使暂时引进了高端管理人才,能否长期留住他们也是问题。

研发投入缺位

河南亟须打造服装时尚创新创意中心

“我们不反对来料加工、贴牌生产,但如果一直没有高端管理人才,没有世界一流的服装设计师,没有一流的研发团队,就无法引领河南服装产业摆脱低端制造,从而真正走向高附加值之路。”陈秀娜说。

深耕服装行业20余年,陈秀娜一直将研发视为服装企业的两大核心板块之一。因为这是打造品牌,引领时尚的“翘板”。那么,该如何全面提升河南服装产业的时尚氛围和产业动力?

陈秀娜建议,由相关政府部门牵头规划,行业协会或服装龙头企业负责实施,组织打造“河南服装时尚创新创意中心”,实现服装企业研发的聚集,吸引各服装企业总部研发机构入驻。

陈秀娜认为,“河南服装时尚创新创意中心”应包括四部分,成为集“研发设计集合中心、国际流行趋势展演发布中心、设计师品牌服装展示销售中心、国际国内服装研发人才交流培训中心”为一体的“时尚四心栖息地”,依托“四心聚合的总部经济”,营造时尚氛围,推动河南服装业转型升级。

“河南服装时尚创新创意中心”将和各类产业园区一样,作为承载和拉动全省经济发展“第一引擎”,承担着制造业高质量发展的重任。就目前全省各类产业园区、聚集区的发展建设,陈秀娜也给出了自己的建议。

“建议建立反馈问题的网上‘直通车’制度,打通企业与政府沟通的有效桥梁。” 陈秀娜建议的“直通车”制度包括反映问题、处理结果、解决问题的质量等内容。政府职能部门与企业家可以定期进行“面对面”交流,并将最终处理结果在一定范围内公示。

河南服装产业正面临机遇

争取走出国门、冲向世界

河南服装产业目前尚无叫响全国乃至世界的一线品牌,这一直是河南服装人的“心病”。

作为河南本土中高端服装品牌的领头羊,黛玛诗品牌被赋予了走出国门、冲向世界的期望。

据陈秀娜介绍,截至目前,黛玛诗销售市场覆盖27个省市自治区,在意大利、韩国、北京、郑州设立了独立附属材料研究室和产品研发工作室,下设北京黛玛诗、深圳京澄服装、深圳黛玛诗三个子公司,拥有D’modes(黛玛诗)、CHICHY两大品牌,在北京SKP、北京燕莎、上海第一八佰伴、天津友谊、深圳海雅等一类商场开设了近100家直营店铺。

“河南服装产业基础好,如今又有国家多项政策加持,服装产业正面临前所未有的发展机遇。”如今,陈秀娜心中有着更大的目标,希望用三代人的努力,将黛玛诗打造成百年品牌和百亿级企业,力争成为中国的“香奈儿”。

编辑 丁新湍

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